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Kilmaurs Place, The Place or Kilmaurs House, is an old mansion house and the ruins of Kilmaurs Tower are partly incorporated, Kilmaurs, East Ayrshire, Scotland. The house stands on a prominence above the Carmel Water and has a commanding view of the surrounding area. Once the seat of the Clan Cunningham Earls of Glencairn, it ceased to be the main residence after 1484 when Finlaystone became the family seat.Metcalfe, William M. (1905). A History of the County of Renfrew from the Earliest Times. Paisley : Alexander Gardner. p. 121 Not to be confused with Kilmaurs Castle that stood on the lands of Jocksthorn Farm.
The Statistical Account of 1791-99 states that "...the house known by the name of the Place , was poffeffed by them, where the late Chancellor had laid the foundation of a very extenfive building, and executed part of it; but from embarraffments of fortune, from which he expected to be relieved by Government, in whofe service, he incurred them, was obliged to give up the plan."Sinclair, Page 328
Kilmaurs Place is said by the Royal Commission, following Duncan McNaught,McNaught, Page 103. to be a 17th-century mansion abutting the East wall of its predecessor (NS44SW 16), Kilmaurs Tower, the construction works on the previous building having ceased upon the death of the 9th Earl of Glencairn.McNaught, Page 93 Tranter regards it as having been erected against the east wall of its predecessor, Kilmaurs Tower.Tranter, Page 40.
| Etymology |
| Carmel, the oldest form of which is Caremuall, is thought to be derived, according to McNaught,McNaught, Page from the Gaelic 'Car' meaning a 'fort', and 'Meall'. meaning a hill. Therefore, 'The fort on the hill'. |
McMichael regards the remains as being the ruins of the old castle.McMichael, Page 146 Tranter sees the picturesque mansion as being erected against the East wall of its predecessor, the Kilmaurs Tower. In 1935 it was occupied by the tenants of the adjoining farm and the internally he noted that many alterations had taken place.Tranter, Pages 17–18 Salter regards the present house as having been built on the site of an older castle.Salter, Page 48 Davis sees the whole range as possibly being the lower floor of an unfinished palace of 16th-century date.Davis, Page 302 Close in 2012 sees the ruins as being part of a tower house of the 15th century and the main building a mansion house dating from around 1630 with some features in common with the 1643 Fenwick Parish Church.Close (2012), Page 465
In July 1616 William, Lord Kilmaurs, conveyed " the lands of Coktress, the manorplace of Kilmaurs, the Waird, Quhatfauld, Bathe, Jakisthorn, etc.," to David Cunningham of Robertland.McNaught, Page 109 and the property was in use by William Logan, the Robertland Estate Factor, when a series of letters were written here from May 1774 to 1784.McNaught, Page 109
It was occupied at one time by Susanna Montgomery, Lady Eglinton, dowager Countess of Eglinton.Fraser, Page 62 It was traditional and practical for a dowager to move out of the family seat and dwell within a dower house. Susanna as dowager countess seems to have first moved to Kilmaurs Place and she later, after 1762, moved to Auchans House near Dundonald, South Ayrshire. Letters from 1751 to 1762 are recorded as being written at Kilmars (sic) and from 1765 they are recorded as being written at Auchans House.
Susanna wrote a description of Kilmaurs House to one of her daughters, Lady Mary Murray, in the winter of 1751; illustrating its condition at the time of her taking up occupancy:
Fullarton, Page 75 In 1762 she writes in a letter to her son-in-law James Moray of Abercairney that her son (the tenth earl) has given her Auchans House and that she was about to repair it.Service, Page 206 Millar records that after the murder, by gauger (exciseman) Mungo Campbell, of her son Alexander, tenth Earl of Eglintoun, in 1769, she retired from the position which she held in society; and when her second son Archibald (the 11th Earl) was married in 1772, she took up her residence permanently at Auchans.Millar, Page 14
In 1820 the property was owned by Lady Montgomery Burgess, grand-daughter of the 9th Earl of Eglinton.
William Logan, the Robertland Estate Factor lived at Kilmaurs Place and employed a Robert Burnes and wrote a series of letters from May 1774 to 1784 to his employer that sometimes refer to Robert, uncle of the poet. Logan later lived at Thorntoun House.Strawhorn, Page 26 In 1793 Captain Ralston, of Warwickhill resided in Kilmaurs House / The Place.Dobie, Page 289McNaught, Page 105
In 1786 the 14th Earl of Glencairn sold The Place to the Marchioness of Titchfield.Patience, Page 20
The Place and Morton Park, part of the old estate, was gifted to the people of Kilmaurs by Lady Sophia Montgomerie, daughter of the 14th Earl of Eglinton; she died in 1942. It was named however after the Morton family of Lochgreen in 1921, the official opening being on 9 September 1922.Horner, Mary & Martin (2008). Oral communication. The house was later sold and passed into general ownership.
One summer the Carmel almost dried up, but the Maak's well did not, and locals farmers brought their carts up the riverbed to collect water in barrels, etc. In 2013 the well no longer runs into the Carmel Water following new railings being installed at the stream bank.
Sir William had married Margaret Denniston who was the sole heir to Sir Robert Denniston in 1405 and the dowry included the baronies of Denniston and Finlaystone in Renfrewshire, the lands of Kilmaronock in Dumbartonshire, and the barony of Glencairn in Dumfrieshire.*Metcalfe, William M. (1905). A History of the County of Renfrew from the Earliest Times. Paisley : Alexander Gardner. p. 121 In 1545 Kerelaw Castle was the summer dwelling of the Earl of Glencairn and Finlaystone was the winter abode.Paterson, Page 558 The Cunninghams of Hill of Beith Castle and Caddel were a cadet branch of the Cunninghams of Kilmaurs.
Following a personal duel and skirmishes in the ranks he withdrew his forces. He thereafter fought Monk's columns at Dumbarton where overwhelming odds forced him to surrender on honorable terms. He returned home but was thrown into prison on suspicion of plotting, being mistrusted by Archbishop Sharp. Following the Restoration, Charles II rewarded him with the appointment of Privy council. A few years later in 1660 he was elevated to Lord Chancellor, during which time he started to enlarge Kilmaurs Place. Further political intrigues reduced his power and standing greatly and he died a disillusioned man. The History of the Earls of Glencairn The large vaulted room in Kilmaurs Place is known as the 'Chancellor's Hall or Study.'
His second wife was Lady Margaret Montgomerie, daughter of the 6th Earl of Eglinton. It is recorded that upon his death she had his head removed and kept it in her chamber with instructions that it should be placed in her coffin when she died. In the 1780s when the vault was opened to bury Hamilton of Bardowie the reddish coloured skull of the 9th Earl was encountered.Fullarton, p.123
William Ralston married Elizabeth Dun on 5 October 1783 in Kilmaurs, Ayrshire. Elizabeth Dun died in 1806. Children from this marriage were: Gavin Ralston (Cornet, 25th Regiment of Light Dragoon); John Ralston (Lieutenant, 25th Regiment of Light Dragoons); William Ralston who died in 1805, Robert Ralston who was born on 29 June 1788 in Kilmaurs, Ayrshire and died in 1796, at age 8; Mary Ralston was born before 14 September 1793 in Kilmaurs, Ayrshire and died in 1796, about age 3. His marriage to Elizabeth Dun seems to conflict with the report in the History of the County of Ayr p453 where it is stated he married his cousin Agnes Ralston. This marriage is listed in Scotland's People. He was previously "married" to Anny Leitch and there are legal documents relating to this in the NRS, Edinburgh under the ref. CC8/6/725. A copy of his will in 1837 is held by Scotlands People and his wife was taken to court in 1833 over a possible insurance fraud. He was initially a sergeant in the additional companies of the 71st Fraser Highland Regiment in 1778. Alexander McDougal Ralston of Warwickhill is buried in the cemetery at Dreghorn Parich Church. He died at the age of 64 in 1862.
A Major Ralston was in the group that witnessed the murder of the 10th Earl of Eglinton by gauger Mungo Campbell at Ardrossan on 24 October 1769. The earl was visiting his properties in the area at the time and was accompanied by others, including his then factor, John Foulis.Cousins, Page 61
1484 - Earls of Glencairn transfer their family seat to Finlaystone Castle after inheriting that castle in 1405.
1520 - David Cunninghame of Robertland recorded as being in possession of the "place, houssis and Kirklands of Kilmawris". Archaeological & Historical Collections relating to the County of Renfrew. Vol.1. Parish of Lochwinnoch. 1885. Paisley : Alexander Gardner. p.174
1527 - Cuthbert Cunningham, 3rd Earl, living at both Kilmaurs Tower and Kilmaurs Castle.
1600 - William Cunningham, 7th Earl, commissions his memorial in the Glencairn Aisle at St Maurs-Glencairn Church.
1608 - Kilmaurs Tower shown on Timothy Pont's map. No record of Kilmaurs Place.
1612 - John Monipennie stated that "Kilmaurs Tower" was the residence of the Earls of Glencairn, indicating that Kilmaurs Place had not yet been constructed.
1616 - William Cunningham conveys the 'manor place' to David Cunningham of Robertland.
1623 - The Glencairn Greit House built in Dumbarton High Street as the townhouse of the Earls of Glencairn.
1600 to 1649 - various suggested dates recorded for the construction of Kilmaurs Place. However see next entry.
1660 to 1664 - William Cunningham, 9th Earl, begins and then abandons construction of a substantial new building at Kilmaurs.
1685 - first recorded mention of "The Place" as noted in the "Caprington Retours" of that date.
1720 - Earl of Eglinton, purchases Kilmaurs Place from William Cunningham.
1751 - 1762 - Susanna, Dowager Countess of Eglinton, living at Kilmaurs Place.
1774 - 1784 - William Logan, factor of the Robertland Estate, living at Kilmaurs Place.
1786 - 14th Earl of Eglinton sells Kilmaurs Place to the Marchioness of Titchfield.
1788 - A Mr Hamilton of Bardowie dies at 'Kilmaurs House.' A relation of the Cunningham's he was permitted burial in the Glencairn Aisle vault.Fullarton, p.123
1793 - Captain Ralston of Warwickhill, factor to the Earl of Eglinton, living at Kilmaurs Place.
1820 - Lady Montgomery Burgess, great grand-daughter of the 9th Earl of Eglinton, living at Kilmaurs Place.
1870 - James Wyllie and his wife Elizabeth, nee Muir lived at 'The Place'. James was the miller at nearby Kilmaurs Mill.
1877 - John Mackie and his wife Elizabeth, nee Dunlop lived at 'The Place'. John was the miller at Kilmaurs Mill.The
1935 - In use as a farmhouse.
1956 - In use as a farmhouse.
In 1956 Kilmaurs Place is described as having been restored, and in use as a farmhouse. Kilmaurs Place was listed on 14 April 1971 as a Category B historic building.
Davis records that the house has a 'T' plan and is dated circa 1620. The 'ruins' appear to be the incomplete lower floor of a 16th-century range. The Place itself is not vaulted, although the 'ruins' have a slate roofed vaulted chamber still in use by the present occupants and known as the Chancellor's Study. This chamber was in use as a milk house in the early 19th century. Presbytery of Irvine against the Reverend Alexander Inglis. May 1855. A plan of Kilmaurs Place enclosed. Pub. Edinburgh. 1885. A fine 16th-century fireplace and carved jambs are located in the Place itself.
The original entrance was at the staircase projection, the door still being visible in the fabric of the building and an armorial panel above is still visible above. The windows have been much altered as have the floor levels within the building.Davis, Page 302. Campbell comments on the possibility of Kilmaurs Place being built upon an older castle which is no longer evident.Campbell, Page 203 Tranter comments on the Garret in the steeply pitched roof and the chamfered surrounds on some of the windows. The house belongs to the very end of the defensive period.Tranter, Page 41 Close sees The Place as essentially being a new build on a new site and comments that the building has been much altered, most obviously by the 'slapping out' of additional windows.Close, Page 118 In the 1940s the house was described thus: 'The still remaining apartments are more like dungeons than living-rooms'.Cuthbertson, Page 165 A watch room was located at the top of the staircase projection.
In 1912 the remains of an avenue opening on the Townend and leading circuitously to the old frontage could still be discerned in the field adjoining the main road; Cuthbertson records a few of these beech trees being present in 1945.Cuthbertson, Page 190 The entrance off the Mill Vennel by a bridge over the Carmel Water, is said to have been formed when the frontage was changed.McNaught, Page 94
The 1788–91 Eglinton estate plans of holdings in Kilmaurs show an entrance running straight up to The Place from near the bridge over the Carmel Water on the Kilmaurs Road; the formal pleasure gardens are illustrated as a square of three by three equal size squares with paths dividing them up. These gardens lay on the church side of the house, slightly offset towards Tour House.Scottish National Archive. RHP/35795 – 35808. In 1945 the vaulted ruins were being used as stores for agricultural tools and such-like.
The bridge over the Carmel at Fenwick Road was built to provide an access when the front entrance was moved to the north facing side.
===Kilmaurs Tower ruins and Place in 1912===
The reputed warlock, John Stewart, is said to have regularly met with the fairies on Kilmaurs Hill.Love (2009), Page 108
Latter day owners of Kilmaurs Place were the Tannock family who were threshing contractors and Mr Eric Anderson who ran a DIY shop in Kilmaurs Village.Neil, Frank (2010). Oral informant.
===Kilmaurs Place and surroundings in 2008===
====The Gardens of Kilmaurs Place in 2009====
Adamson relates in 1875 that the ancient castle was in the vicinity of Jock's or Jack's Thorn farm, and indeed several old people from Kilmaurs in 1875 remembered playing amongst the ruined remnants of masonry which occupied the site of this old castle of the Cunninghams.Adamson, Page 168. Metal detectorists have found medieval coins in this area amongst old unhewn building or foundation stones. The 19th-century 6 inch OS Map of Kilmaurs marks the supposed site of Kilmaurs Castle off the side of the farm road leading to Jocksthorn from the old Stewarton Road. OS 6 Inch Map.
Dobie in 1874 that the old baronial residence was about a mile South-East of Kilmaurs and ruins could still be pointed out on the farm of Jock's Thorn. He goes on to say that this could have been the 'Villam de Cunninghame', the original residence and first possession of this ancient family. Lambroughton is another possible site.
Davis records that the local farmer has noted that pottery and stones are brought up by ploughing at an elevated spot (NS 417 411) off the old entrance to Jock's Thorn farm at a point East of both Tour and Jock's Thorn. Davis also notes that Cuthbert Cunninghame's family lived at Jocksthorn.Davis, Page 301
Duncan McNaught records that a charter of 1498 refers to the Castle and Fortalice of the Barony and lands of Kilmaweris (sic). The explanation for the Kilmaurs Place / Jock's Thorn locations of Kilmaurs Castle is that the prime location for a castle was on the eminence now occupied by Kilmaurs Place and this was the baronial residence, whilst Jock's Thorn was a separate defensive structure, a fortalice, usually more a place for the protection of the common people than a residence for the laird.Mackenzie, Page Stewarton shows this situation with Corsehill Castle as the manorial residence and the Templehouse fortalice as the place for the protection of the tenantry.McNaught, Page 104 – 105.
The case was placed before the Presbytery of Ayr and the minister was suspended.Prebytery of Ayr v Alexander Inglis. May 1885. The Kilmaurs Case. Church of Scotland Papers. p.34 After due process the Presbytery found him guilty on three counts, however he appealed to the Synod who reversed the decision of the Presbytery, who then took it to the General Assembly of the Church of Scotland and here the minister was found not proven on all counts and he was reinstated. It was requested that all the evidence put before the assembly should be cremated due to the salacious nature of the accusations.The Kilmarnock Standard, May 30, 1885 A meeting was held by mainly the menfolk of Kilmaurs and the result was a finding of a miscarriage of justice and the Presbytery were thanked for their involvement.The Kilmarnock Standard, June 20, 1885
In 1870 James Wyllie, the miller, and his wife Elizabeth, nee Muir lived at 'The Place'. In 1877 John Mackie and his wife Elizabeth, nee Dunlop lived at 'The Place', John having become the miller.
During the 20th century a turbine, an oil engine, a vertical steam engine, and finally an electric engine were installed in turn; the waterwheel was abandoned. The first-floor loading door had a hinged chute for sliding sacks into lorries.
The millstones were supported on a cast iron cradle and below this were the belt-drives which transferred power from the waterwheel/motors to the stones. Five pairs of millstones were present. The 19th-century mill was used initially for grinding oats, and later for crushing peas and beans for use in animal feeds.
Every barony had a Thirlage mill held by the laird which his tenant farmers had to use, and the nearby Kilmaurs Mill on the Carmel Water dated back to at least the early 17th century as shown by old maps of the area. A mill on the site of old Kilmaurs Mill may therefore have been the one directly associated with the laird at the Place. An unusual feature of this old mill was a carved stone showing a millstone drive spider or rind (often used on Miller's tombstones as a symbol of the milling trade) on which the upper grindstone rested, a ring of rope, a bill for dressing millstones, and a grain shovel. This stone still survives at the site of the old mill, built into a wall.
Local names such as 'Ladeside' recall the mill. The old lade, much of its course still evident, took its water from the Carmel Water close to the road junction onto the Old Stewarton Road. The remains of the old mill pond dam are still visible (2008), but the pond itself has long been filled in on the site that became a plant nursery at Millholm.
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